Creality CR-10S Pro Hero Me Fan Upgrade Guide

The Firmware modification portion of this post has been updated to support Tiny Machine’s awesome firmware!

Who can deny the awesome aesthetics  and cooling power of  an upgraded cooling fan? Not me! I was so excited when I stumbled upon the  CR-10S Pro Hero Me fan upgrade design by user mediaman. For those who are not familiar, the Hero Me is designed to be modular system and once a base has been designed for your printer, you can bolt on any configuration of Z probes and cooling fans. I decided to upgrade to the Hero Me system while maintaining all the original CR-10S cooling fans.

I was just about to CAD up a 4020 mount to use the stock 24VDC fan  when I saw user Stefire already made this one. This sliced view shows how the fan duct directs the airflow around to the tip.

I have slightly modified the clearances on the Hero Me base and added holes to access the hotend mounting bolts. I have also made adjustments to the inductive probe mount as the mounting hole needed to enlarged for my stock probe.

UPDATE: The original author (mediaman) of these file has now included these changes in the latest revision which again can be found here.

I will include everything I used into a single Thingaverse, while citing the original sources to make it easy for people to find. All that is need to complete this mod are:

  • 2 – M3 x 8.00mm bolts to mount the Hero Me base
  • 2 – M3 x 5.00mm bolts for the Inductive Z probe
  • 3 – M3 nuts

I highly recommend picking up an M3 and M4 assorted hardware set off Ebay to make this and future upgrades easier, just head over to Ebay and search “M4 socket set” and enrich your life. You will of course need the STLs file for the following 4 parts which can be found here.

Go ahead and loosen the belt tensor/pulley mount, this will provide enough slack to remove the belt from the X gantry plate.

With the belt removed, you can loosen the eccentric nut with the provided wrench and loosen the top two rubber wheels with an Allen key and a 10mm wrench. The gantry plate can then be removed and disassembled. Now install the Hero Me base and probe mount of your choice onto the gantry plate using the M3 nuts and bolt acquired. reverse the steps to mount the gantry plate and tighten the eccentric wheel and belt.

Mount the air duct using a single M3 nut and bolt and feed all the wires through to provided channel. I actually thread the nut and bolt in the reverse direction that what is shown in the picture below. The air duct has a solid friction fit and I felt no need to secure it with additional hardware.

Firmware Updates

With everything all fitted up and looking great, the is one small change required in firmware to update the printer to use the new offsets for the Z probe mount. mediaman has been kind enough to provide a list of these new offsets for all configurations.

  • Stock ABL & EZABL for the Single 5015 fan duct is: -45 X and -9 Y
  • Stock ABL & EZABL for the Dual 5015 fan duct is: -50 X and -9 Y
  • BLTouch & the Single 5015 fan duct is: -40 X and -13 Y
  • BLTouch & the Dual 5015 fan duct is: -46 X and -13 Y

We will be using the option for “Stock ABL & EZABL for the Single 5015 fan duct is” and our offsets will be -45 X and -9 Y. The new offsets are applied in configuration.h in the Marlin source code. This process will require you to compile the Marlin source in the Arduino IDE and flash the new changes over USB.

Factory Firmware flashing

Sticking with the Creality provided firmware and just updating the offsets in the configuration.h file is an option.

The factory CR10S-Pro source code can be found here. 

The following updates should be applied to configuration.h before compiling and uploading to your printer:

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Tiny Machines Firmware flashing

If you haven’t already switched over to the Tiny Machines firmware, please do so immediately, it’s way better! Tiny machines has also released their source code and with a little git-fu you can compile and make changes such as X and Y offsets. I won’t cover installing Git here as the internet is pretty good at explaining that for your specific OS environment.  You can browse the Tiny Machines GitHub repo here, or follow along on the command line to download the proper source tree.

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List all the available branches.

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Now we can switch to the “Creality_DWINTest” branch which will be for a stock CR10S-Pro.

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Note that there will a “CR-X Screen” folder which contains the screen firmware to be flashed via the internal SD card (Which was already been covered by Teaching Tech here). Open up the Marlin.ino in the Arduino IDE. You can now update the follow offsets in configuration.h

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You should be good-to-go after compiling and flashing the new firmware!